Iceland: the Ring Road, hot springs and how to afford it

Iceland is small, wild and easy to drive around. It is also one of the most expensive places to visit, so planning matters more here than almost anywhere else.

What to see

• The Golden Circle: a day trip from Reykjavik to Thingvellir National Park, the Geysir hot spring area and the Gullfoss waterfall.
• The south coast: the waterfalls of Seljalandsfoss and Skogafoss, black sand beaches and glacier walks.
• Glacier lagoon: Jokulsarlon, with floating icebergs on the southeast coast.
• The north: whale watching from Husavik, the Myvatn area and Akureyri.
• Hot springs: the Blue Lagoon is famous, and bookings are needed. Smaller, cheaper pools and natural springs are all over the country.
• The Ring Road: the main road that circles the island. Allow about a week to do it without rushing.

When to go

• June to August: the warmest weather, nearly all roads open and long daylight, including near-midnight sun. Also the busiest and priciest.
• September to March: a chance to see the northern lights on dark, clear nights. Days are short and the weather and roads can be rough.
• Spring and fall: fewer crowds, lower prices and changeable weather.

Getting around

• A rental car gives the most freedom. Book early for summer.
• Mountain roads, called F-roads, usually need a four-wheel-drive vehicle and are mostly open only in summer. Check the official road conditions site before you set out each day.
• Ask your rental company about insurance for gravel, sand and wind damage. They are common claims.
• If you do not want to drive, there are bus tours, and a bus network that runs in summer.

How to spend less

• Cook some of your own meals. Supermarkets sell basics, and many places to sleep have kitchens.
• Drink the tap water. It is clean and free.
• Stay in guesthouses, hostels or campsites. A campervan covers both sleeping and getting around.
• Visit in spring or fall, when flights and rooms cost less.
• Many top sights are free, including waterfalls, black sand beaches and hiking trails. Spend on one or two paid tours rather than many.
• A stopover can add Iceland to a flight across the Atlantic. See Find cheaper flights.

Stay safe

Weather changes fast, so dress in waterproof layers and carry a charged phone. Check the weather and safety alerts daily on the official Icelandic sites. Stay away from cliff edges. On black sand beaches like Reynisfjara, never turn your back on the ocean, because large waves can arrive without warning.

Good to know

Cards are accepted almost everywhere, even for tiny purchases. Showering before you enter a hot spring pool is a firm rule, and locals take it seriously.