Morocco: Marrakech, Fes and the Sahara

Morocco is close to Europe but feels a world away. Busy markets, tiled palaces, blue mountain towns and golden dunes make it a favorite.

Highlights

• Marrakech: the Jemaa el-Fna square, the souks, gardens and palaces. Stay in a riad, a traditional house with a central courtyard.
• Fes: one of the largest car-free old cities in the world, with tanneries and old schools.
• Chefchaouen: the blue town in the Rif mountains.
• The Sahara: from Merzouga or Zagora, take a camel trek and sleep in a desert camp. It is a long drive, so allow two or three days.
• Atlas Mountains and Ait Ben Haddou: red kasbahs and mountain villages.
• Essaouira and the coast: a breezy walled port town with seafood and surfing.

When to go

Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) are the best, with mild days. Summer is very hot inland. Winter is cool, and it can be cold at night in the mountains and desert. If you visit during Ramadan, expect shorter opening hours in the day but lively evenings.

Getting around

• Trains link Tangier, Rabat, Casablanca, Marrakech and Fes, with a fast line in the north.
• Comfortable buses cover most other routes.
• Taxis in cities should use the meter, or you should agree the price before you start.
• For the desert, a multi-day tour is much easier than going alone. Compare several, ask what is included, and read recent reviews.

Shopping and bargaining

Haggling is normal in the souks. Decide what you would pay before you start, begin low, smile, and be ready to walk away. Ask the price clearly before you accept mint tea or any help.

Avoid hassles

• People may offer to guide you through the medina, then ask for money. A firm "no, thank you" works. Official guides carry ID.
• Dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees, out of respect and to draw less attention.
• Ask before taking photos of people.
• Carry small notes. Exchange money at banks or ATMs.

Eat

Try tagine, couscous, pastilla and fresh juices. Street food and busy local restaurants are good and cheap. Drink bottled water.